Showing posts with label thailand culture. Show all posts
Showing posts with label thailand culture. Show all posts

Going, Going, Gong... and some floating memories

A sign of the times in Chiang Mai - another failed business. Would have liked to have known how long a shop exclusively retailing gongs managed to keep afloat. But while on a watery theme...

The floating market has become something of a tourist cliche these days, part of the unavoidable list of must-see places for visitors to Bangkok - sooner or later you'll find yourself there, just as countless tourism touts will eventually end up persuading you to make a trip to the Tiger Temple. But if you're going to go, now's the time - the dearth of foreign visitors will make for a scene resembling the market in days of old. For once looking like the 'real thing', rather than an imitation version, a show put on for the tourists' benefit. Ok it's not - it's a bona fide market that has been trading in this manner for many years - but the seasoned traveller can end up with that nagging feeling, when persuaded to go along on an organised trip to places like this.

floating market near BangkokIn the days when tourists were still flocking to Thailand, visitors to the floating market near Bangkok.
floating market near BangkokClick on any of the thumbnails, small or large, to see the full-size photos...

floating market near Bangkok floating market near Bangkok floating market near Bangkok

It's a colourful and chaotic setting, for first time Western visitors to SE Asia providing a cultural 'rush' that leaves you giddy with exotic impressions of a world so far removed from our own.


On your way back home your guide will miraculously find the time to call in at a gem factory or the like, not originally on the day's agenda. You are under no obligation to buy of course, but he gets his pay-off just from leaving his group at the door. The theory is that the wide-eyed tourist fresh off the plane from 'civilisation', inebriated by Asian exotica, will be ripe for the soft sell. An attractive lady will act as your limpet-like assistant, ushering you through the maze of never-ending counters crammed with jewels priced at least 50% higher than in back-street shops. You don't know this yet - or you wouldn't be on a guided tour in the first place.

Still, if you have valiantly resisted, you start to wonder how to escape. You peer into the distance, but no sign of a way out. When you eventually have to ask if there actually is one, your personally assigned gem specialist will adopt a wistful look, while trying to sell you the last option, the cheapest item in the shop... then lead you to a door where the word exit has been printed in size 8 font.

At least this is no Tunisian souk... the salespeople in Thailand are restricted by a culturally bred natural reluctance to impose themselves on their potential customers. Walk through a night bazaar, and no street hawker will attach himself to you refusing to take no for an answer. A simple "mai ao, krap" (no thanks, I don't want), and you will be left alone.

That's one memory I always take back with me to Europe - the unfailing politeness of the Thais.

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Thaksin phone-in blocked? Angry crowds in Chiang Mai

crowds rally at the Chiang Mai DAAD headquarters for the Thaksin addresstechnicians and organisers at Chiang Mai DAAD headquarters struggle to establish the satellite uplink, to no avail...Ex-premier of Thailand Thaksin Shinawatra was to have taken part in a live phone-in tonight to supporters massed in a Bangkok stadium, and at rallies around Thailand. However there was both anger and disappointment amongst the several thousand strong crowd in Chiang Mai when the authorities allegedly blocked the transmission of his satellite phone call from "somewhere in a neighbouring country". [Ed. at this stage there is no evidence that the phone-in was deliberately blocked. There was pressure on Thaksin to avoid further provocation, even from within the political groups he used to lead]

- technicians and organisers at Chiang Mai DAAD headquarters struggle to establish the satellite uplink, to no avail...

The anger was pretty muted in the circumstances. Imagine the reaction of a crowd somewhere in the West, gathered together at a major rally to listen to a revered, if fugitive former leader, only to be told that the transmission had been deliberately blocked by the authorities of that country. There would be outrage, demonstrations, possibly even riots. However this is Thailand - and there was a certain resignation at a not unexpected turn of events. Thailand's democracy is stuttering, and the prospect of real freedom of expression is even more remote after tonight, according to one of the Chiang Mai organisers.

DAAD rally organiser puts on a brave faceOne of the rally leaders puts on a brave face, but he couldn't mask his disappointment at what he saw as yet another deliberate attempt to stifle the voice of the ordinary Thai people...

DAAD demonstrators in their thousands in a passionate but peaceful protest

Are these the stupid farmers the PAD would have the public believe to be blindly following Thaksin?Very striking is the composed and orderly nature of every rally I've been to here in Chiang Mai. A far cry from the gangs of stupid thugs that the PAD leaders would have their followers believe are gathering in hordes in the north of the country. With the help of an interpreter, I was able to chat to half a dozen red-shirted followers present at tonight's gathering, and they all expressed an articulate understanding of the issues involved. Hardly the ignorant peasants portrayed by their yellow-shirted opponents.

Feelings run high as it becomes clear that the Thaksin phone-in has been cancelled at the last minute, but people remain calmPlenty of passion - but no aggression

Not a single major Thai TV network broadcast the pre-recorded speech, only showing brief clips of the 50,000 strong gathering at the Bangkok stadium. In the address Thaksin suggested that Thailand was undergoing a "coup d'etat" targeting the newly formed democratic institutions, accusing the military of directly intervening in the current discussions over the formation of a new government.

He also berated PAD for their occupation of the main Bangkok airports,
Suvarnabhumi and Don Muang, and appealed for unity.

The Imperial Mae Ping, Chiang Mai - at 6.30pm. Few lights on in the roomsEarlier in the evening, the Imperial Mae Ping Hotel at 6.30 pm. If the number of lights in the rooms is any indication, occupancy is extremely low, in line with the 10% reported by a number of top hotels in Bangkok

Except for a few expats, the bars in Chiang Mai remain pretty deserted10.30pm, at the What? bar, Loi Kroh. A few expat regulars watch the Liverpool Hull match, barely a farang to be seen in the street outside...

To avoid accusations of bias... here are some yellow-shirts.

A school outing near the Bridge over the River Kwai. Monday royal yellow happily worn in pre-PAD daysTaken in those innocent days when PAD hadn't hijacked the colour for their own purposes, and people happily wore yellow as a sign of respect for the King on a Monday.

A school outing near the Bridge over the River Kwai. Monday royal yellow happily worn in pre-PAD days
Photo taken in those relatively innocent days before the colour yellow became largely associated with the PADLest it be forgotten that ordinary people are the pawns in the machinations of the powerful as the game plays itself out...

RELATED POSTS:


November 27th - Thailand - Caught in a humiliating political farce
November 28th - Chiang Mai - the calm before the storm?
November 29th - Thai tuk-tuks to face down the tanks
November 29th - Red-shirts rally in Chiang Mai
November 30th - Thailand - the land of worn and tired smiles
December 1st - Crisis in Thailand? What crisis. Mai pen lai
December 3rd - Airport occupation over... or is it?

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