(Click on any photo to see the full-sized image...)
11,250 monks gathered on Nimmanhaemin chanting before the alms-gathering proper begins... photo courtesy of 'Glen'
It was freezing. Well not literally, but all the same, early December the Chiang Mai province had declared the region a "cold-spell disaster zone".
"Prajon Pratsakul, chief of Chiang Mai Disaster Prevention and Mitigation Office, said the disaster zone was declared on Dec 1 after the districts were under 15 Celsius degree for three consecutive days. He said the provincial administration is seeking 2.5 million baht (about £60,000) from the government to provide urgent help to local people who need about 100,000 blankets. The chief disaster mitigation office added that the temperature at the mountain tops in the province remained between 5 to 9 degrees for several days." (source: The Nation)Ok you may mock! Hardly blue nose temperatures at "under 15 deg. C", but combined with the high humidity the chill factor seems greater somehow. Felt positively Alpine at 5am.
A simple version of this 'ตักบาตร' ('Tak Bat') ceremony happens every day throughout the year, although not always during the rainy season. Because of the 'unearthly' hour many farangs - tourists or expats - never see it. Barefoot monks set out at first light carrying their alms bowl - the sole container the monk is allowed to own (traditionally he is allowed eight articles in all - upper robe, under-garment, double robe, girdle, alms-bowl, razor, needle, water strainer). Why first light? Because the monks have to allow the laywomen sufficient time to prepare the single meal of the day, and this has to be eaten before midday. They cannot set out earlier; going barefoot in a country with venomous snakes, scorpions and the like isn't recommended.
They walk in single file, in order of seniority. (In the daily practice, if there are several wats in close proximity the temples' 'ajahns' (abbots) agree on the routes to be followed in advance).
For the sake of less-informed farangs present, the announcer explained in English that onlookers should not touch either the monks, or their bowls, should they wish to give alms. Those giving alms also remove their shoes. The monks neither look at, nor speak to the alms-giver...
Not just food, medicines and other essentials are welcome...
Devout, but always ready with a smile ...
The army lends a hand ...
Looked as if a whole battalion had turned out ...
"One slow approaching with his head close shorn,
A yellow cloth over his shoulder cast,
Girt as the hermits are, and in his hand
An earthen bowl, shaped melonwise, the which
Meekly at each hut-door he held aspace,
Taking the granted dole with gentle thanks
And all as gently passing where none gave". (Edwin Arnold - Light of Asia)